Datu Migketay V. Saway

The kalapulu and Talaandig fashion heritage 

The wearing of fabric head coverings in Mindanao is a common practice showcasing a variety of forms and function. Men, women, and children wear different types of coverings depending on their age, status, and the occasion. Some headwear is part of daily attire, while others are reserved for special events or rituals. In Muslim communities, head coverings are often worn as a part of religious practice, emphasizing modesty.

Among Indigenous tribes like the Talaandig Tribe, located in the northwest of the Bukidnon Province in the islands of Mindanao, headwear serves to denote social roles, ceremonial purposes, and artistic expression. This may include a panyu  cloth, or tubaw triangular fabric which is worn by men and traditional leaders. A more ornate variation called a tangkulu, is reserved for the tribal leader called the Datu. The tangkulu may feature more intricate designs, beads, or a special form of embroidery called sulam that signify the wearer’s status as a Datu.

This piece is a kalukaplu, a traditional woman's headwear of the Talaandig. Similar to the tubaw in some ways—its shape as a T or triangle—it is part of a larger set of hair and head adornment that includes the pinanggahangan (ornate headdress) and the panika (yarn decoration). The kalukaplu serves to cover the pulungus (hair bun), and together with the panika, covers the neck of the woman.

To be able to wear the kalukaplu, the woman should have hair long enough to create a bun. The kalukaplu can be worn in women's hair even without the panika and the pinanggahanga, for informal settings or daily activities. The pinanggahangan is generally worn during formal events, rituals, or special occasions. You cannot wear the large fan-like pinanggahangan headdress without the kalukaplu, since the hair bun holds the foundation of the pinanggahangan.

The design of the kalukaplu varies depending on the woman's role in the community. Women leaders wear kalukaplu with intricate designs and symbolic patterns, while young girls and common women might wear simpler designs. A pregnant woman may also have designs or adornments based on their preference but not specific in pregnancy. Most Talaandig women own multiple kalukaplu to suit their roles but not dependent to occasions. They are often made by the women themselves, although there may also be skilled artists within the community who specialize in making them, such as the expert sinulaman embroiderers known as manunulam. 

This particular kalukaplu at Harvard’s Peabody Museum is designed with techniques called sinulaman and tinedtedan. The sinulaman is a traditional way of embroidery and the tinedtedan is patching design from the word "tedted" or "tadtad" which translation means to chop, thus, to chop the different colors of fabric and patch them to make a design. This one features the common Talaandig  sinulaman or sulam embroidery design called binuntud, or mountain, derived from the term "buntud.” The mountain design holds significance as the Talaandig people traditionally reside in mountainous regions, and it symbolizes their connection to their ancestral domain and natural surroundings

The kalukaplu is not just a fashion statement but also holds cultural and traditional significance for the Talaandig tribe. It represents the identity and roles of women within the community, as well as the intricate artistry and craftsmanship passed down through generations. The use of traditional embroidery and patchwork techniques showcases the tribe's commitment to preserving their cultural heritage and expressing their artistic skills. The kalukaplu is thus a tangible symbol of Talaandig cultural identity and serves as a reminder of their rich heritage.